Food Freedom for the People

Vermont is known for its bucolic landscapes, commitment to sustainable agriculture, and local food culture. As a state that prides itself on values of independence, resilience, and community, Vermont has a unique place in the world of food production. From maple syrup to artisanal cheeses, products made here represent more than just sustenance—they reflect a legacy of craftsmanship and a way of life that celebrates local pride. Yet, for small-scale dairy farmers who want to bring their fresh, handmade goat cheese to local tables, Vermont’s regulatory landscape is full of barriers that hinder rather than help.

For a state that champions freedom, it’s ironic that regulations designed to protect “quality” are effectively pushing Vermont toward large-scale, factory-style food production. The regulatory system has morphed into a one-size-fits-all approach that imposes the same rules on small-scale, local producers as it does on large, commercial dairies. These restrictions stifle Vermont’s small farms and artisans, and the result? The people of Vermont, along with visitors, are missing out on some of the best-tasting and most authentic local foods available—especially fresh goat cheese.

A Matter of Scale and Cost

At the heart of the issue is the fact that Vermont’s regulatory framework for dairy products requires small producers to meet the same stringent standards as industrial producers. These rules were crafted with large-scale operations in mind and impose costs that are simply unsustainable for small farms. Licensing fees, extensive inspections, and costly equipment requirements quickly add up, making it nearly impossible for small-scale producers to comply without scaling up or investing substantial amounts of money.

For instance, the rules on raw milk cheeses demand a 60-day aging period to reduce pathogen risks. This rule might make sense for certain types of cheeses, but fresh chèvre—a soft, young goat cheese intended to be consumed within days of production—can’t and shouldn’t be aged. These types of requirements don’t reflect the nature of small-scale, artisan cheese-making, where freshness is central to quality. Yet the cost of compliance means small farmers must either abandon their craft, pasteurize everything, or bear the risk of non-compliance.

A Missed Opportunity for Consumers

As it stands, these regulatory hurdles deprive consumers of fresh, high-quality, locally made foods. Fresh goat cheese, which is prized for its creamy texture and tangy flavor, can only be tasted if consumers have the rare opportunity to buy directly from a farmer—without any money changing hands, that is. Under current rules, small producers can legally give away cheese to family and friends but can’t sell it, a system that makes little sense for a community-oriented state like Vermont.

Consumers lose out in this system, too. The flavor and character of Vermont’s small-batch goat cheeses are a product of the local environment, the goat’s diet, and the unique techniques of each artisan. Mass-produced goat cheese, often pasteurized and standardized, simply cannot compare. By overregulating small-scale producers, Vermont is denying its residents and visitors the chance to taste cheeses that showcase the true flavors of Vermont—a missed opportunity to celebrate local culture.

Protecting Quality vs. Preserving Freedom

One common argument for strict regulations is that they protect Vermont’s reputation for high-quality food products. But by favoring large-scale producers who can meet industrial standards, Vermont risks compromising the very essence of its brand. True quality, particularly with artisanal foods, comes from small-scale production, hands-on care, and transparency in sourcing and handling. In small communities, the relationship between producer and consumer is based on trust. The local consumer chooses to buy directly from a trusted neighbor, knowing that this close connection is a form of accountability that doesn’t need heavy-handed oversight.

For a state that champions both freedom and unity, Vermont could benefit from a more responsive regulatory system that respects these values. Rather than imposing costly regulations on every producer, why not create a system where small-scale farmers can demonstrate basic food safety knowledge and carry liability insurance? This setup would ensure accountability while preserving the independence and simplicity that small farmers need to thrive.

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A Model for Food Sovereignty

In some parts of the United States, food sovereignty laws have empowered communities to support their local food systems more freely. These laws allow small producers to sell limited quantities of food directly to informed consumers without the full burden of industrial regulations. Maine, for example, has adopted a statewide food sovereignty law that allows small farmers and producers to sell directly to customers, recognizing the right of people to make their own food choices. Learn more about Maine’s food sovereignty law.

Vermont could consider a similar model, tailored to its unique culture and agricultural landscape. By introducing a tiered regulatory system, Vermont could create different standards for small-scale producers, focusing on the needs of the local economy. Such a system might include basic liability requirements, clear labeling to inform consumers, and minimal paperwork. This approach would provide necessary safety measures while allowing Vermont’s small producers to contribute to the local food economy without undue burden.

The Way Forward

If Vermont wants to protect its brand, it should look to its roots: small-scale, quality-driven production. Supporting local farmers, especially those producing artisanal goods like fresh goat cheese, aligns with Vermont’s values and brings economic and cultural benefits to the state. Local food production is resilient, sustainable, and community-oriented, and it deserves a place in Vermont’s regulatory framework.

Vermont has a chance to become a leader in food sovereignty, balancing the needs of safety, freedom, and quality. By implementing practical regulations that support rather than stifle small producers, Vermont can ensure that its residents enjoy the rich, authentic flavors of local products. Embracing this approach means creating an environment where small-scale food artisans can thrive, where consumers have the freedom to choose, and where Vermont’s legacy of independence and craftsmanship remains alive and well.

For further reading on the benefits of food sovereignty and how small-scale producers are impacted by regulations, visit:

By recognizing the value of small-scale producers and making room for them in the marketplace, Vermont can uphold both freedom and unity in a way that stays true to the heart of the state.

Dave Soulia | FYIVT

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